Why Eliane Haddad selected a season of pinstripes, saturated colour, texture and movement.
Winter rarely arrives all at once. The light changes, evenings become cooler and familiar clothes begin to need something different beside them. That gradual shift is the idea behind Change the Temperature, the ELLY FW27 selection: Italian-made pieces chosen for the way one garment can redirect an outfit through its colour, proportion or surface.
When I began bringing the collection together, I was drawn to contrasts that could live in the same wardrobe. Precise pinstripes sit beside a relaxed sweatshirt; a smooth leather-look skirt meets patterned knitwear; cream fringe and sequins bring movement to pieces intended for evening. The collection does not ask for one fixed mood. It allows the mood to change.
Tailoring with a different rhythm
Pinstripes give FW27 one of its clearest foundations. The Ellen Black Pinstripe Double-Breasted Blazer has a relaxed longline cut, structured shoulders and subtle pinstripes, while the Bridget Black Pinstripe Wide-Leg Trousers introduce a gathered elasticated waist and a fluid wide leg. The two pieces share a pattern, but they do not create a rigid suit. The jacket can sharpen denim or a simple knit, while the trousers work just as naturally with a plain top.
The Mia Blue and Brown Stripe Tie-Neck Shirt changes that rhythm. Its cropped proportion, voluminous sleeves, structured cuffs and tie neckline bring a cooler colour and a more expressive shape into the selection. It can sit beneath tailoring, but the neckline and sleeves give it enough character to be worn on its own.
Texture changes the direction
Some of the strongest pieces in FW27 are defined by what happens across their surface. The Milena Moro Leather-Look Midi Skirt has a smooth dark-brown finish, an asymmetric front seam and a front slit. Those details give the skirt its line without requiring additional decoration.
The Odessa Brown Diamond Knit Sweater approaches texture differently, using a diamond motif across the yoke, a rich brown base and ribbed edges. Beside it, the Morgan Bordeaux 87 Sweatshirt brings a collegiate graphic and relaxed sweatshirt shape into the collection. I liked the possibility of placing these everyday pieces near sharper tailoring rather than separating casual clothes from the rest of the wardrobe.
Evening through colour and movement
The Mabel Red Strapless Jumpsuit is one of the clearest changes of temperature in the collection. Its sculpted strapless bodice, defined waist and full-length wide legs create a continuous silhouette, while the red colour makes the choice more decisive than the same shape in black.
Cream brings another kind of evening presence. The Cassandra Panna Fringe Wrap Jacket combines a wrap front and self-tie waist with a cream sequin-and-fringe surface. The Consuelo Cream Fringe Sequin Skirt carries the same sense of movement through a straight midi silhouette and layered fringe. Both can be placed beside something plain, allowing their texture to become the reason for the outfit.
What I wanted FW27 to offer
For me, Change the Temperature is about what one piece can do: a blue-striped shirt against brown tailoring, cream fringe with a plain top, or a red jumpsuit instead of black. Each gives a familiar wardrobe a different direction.